Did I ever tell you about the time I went camping on a Sicilian beach?

I'm not a high maintenance girl. Honest. My make up bag consists of four items; foundation, Bourjois eyeshadow (which doubles as an eyebag concealer) eyeliner and mascara. My wardrobe fits on two rails and four drawers and a few piles on the floor of the spare room. I don't need to get my hair blow dried every week, or my nails done every fortnight. I don't care about owning a designer anything, and although I won't say no to a bit of luxury, I don't actively seek it.

So camping on a beach is excellent, right? A grand idea? Full of japes and merriment? Perfect for someone like me?

No way man. No way.

If you don't already know, I'm half Sicilian. My family came over to England in the fifties, leaving only my aunty (who married a crazy Sicilian man) and my nonni's brothers and sisters. The ones with thick Sicilian arms from years of making their own passata, and strong Sicilian legs from years of the midnight after-dinner walk/gossip. These people are made of strong stuff, having weathered the war - Sicily was a strategical gem, thought the Nazis and the Brits - poverty, earthquakes that reduced their simple stone villages to rubble, and the loss of the young who leave as soon as they can for the bright lights of Milan or Rome.

Every year from age one to age seventeen mum, dad, Lou and me would pack our blue Austin Montego and make the journey from Cambridgeshire to Sicily for six or seven long weeks. See what I mean about low maintenance? You don't know discomfort until you've sat in a car for a week cross-legged because dad wants to bring home four vats of olive oil. For reals.

When I left school and started work the long, blissful, carefree holidays stopped, and I chose other destinations in place of Sicily. Thailand. Gran Canaria. Africa. Europe. Asia. Sicily fell by the wayside because who wants to spend all their time in one place? It was just a gorgeous memory full of laughter and sun-kissed hours playing in the surf.

Anyway. Fast forward about five years. It must have been 2007(ish). My now-ex and I wanted to visit my aunty, who thankfully kept her house out there after nonna decided to sell hers.

We flew out, meeting my sister and aunty after a day or so. They'd already been out there for a week and had made loads of awesome plans.

One of which was to go camping on the beach. I wasn't convinced.

"Oh go on Laus," my sister pleased. "It's the one night of the year we can!"

Now, Sicilian beaches are hit and miss. There's no sleeping on them, and no fires. Usually. The west coast is battered by the wind and currents that squeeze through the gap between Spain and Morocco so the water is always cooler and full of medusa (jellyfish that give off a wicked - if harmless - sting). Better beaches are found on Castellammare del Golfo, or south by Ericlea Minoa. We were headed to Triscina, on the south coast. It was the one night of the year a beach booze up was allowed.

The night started well. We ate at home with the family, packed the car with a two-person-who-am-I-kidding-it-barely-fits-a-child tent, my aunty's duvet and started the short drive. It was a huge group of us, including aunty, uncle, their three kids, me, the ex, my sister and extended family I'm not 100% sure are even related.

The party was in full swing, with loudspeakers blaring cheeky Italian pop tunes, and barbecues sizzling with steak bought from the butcher that day. At first it was fun. We played beach games, had a swim and a right larf.

Getting to midnight, there was no sign this was going to end. An hour later and it was still raving. I tried to sleep, but the tent was so small and two of my cousins had decided to sleep with us. It was crowded. The scorching sun had made me sleepy and all I wanted was a few hours of rest. EVERYONE else was flat out, but there I was, Italian music from the last 2000s filling my ears. It's not good guys.

I gave up and tried sleeping in the car. The bass thundered through the cheap plastic, vibrating with ever WUAMP-WUAMP-WUAMP. I felt like I was losing my mind. Now I know why sleep deprivation is such an effective form of torture. But why? Why were they torturing me? Wasn't my family supposed to CARE?

After what seemed like hours, I gave up. I begged my aunty for the keys to their house, kicked the kids out of the tent and dragged the ex out of his slumber. I then demanded he drive us home, whereby I fully collapsed in the air conditioned heat and comfort of a good bed and no noise.

The next day my sister returned and laughed at my diva-like behaviour. I took the jeering well. Though they did pay me back by waking me up with a glassful of water the next morning.

Writing this back I can completely see how snobbish I looked. But what can I say? I just love my sleep.

Interested? Read on...

Guest post: Hide and seek in Serbia

When people think of a break in the Balkans, Croatia usually comes to mind. But after a lost weekend in Serbia, I beg to differ.

The first time I visited Belgrade and its surrounding countryside I was mesmerized. From the exposed innards of buildings bombed during the Kosovo War, to the tranquil untouched hills of neighbouring Fruska Gora, it’s a destination of contrasts.

The real beauty of the place is that it’s easy to hide away there. This is something I needed to do whilst in the midst of planning my wedding a few years ago. I needed to get away from the madness for just a few moments and take a deep, peaceful breath.

I found that peace in Serbia, hiding from all the madness of wedding planning at night in Belgrade’s underground bars then seeking out some peace in the countryside during the day.

Night

The city of Belgrade excels if you want to disappear into a whirlwind of heady drink, music and conversation with the always friendly locals. But it’s the hidden gems that really offer something special. And when I say hidden, I mean hidden. The city is home to a handful of underground ‘secret’ bars supposedly set up by people looking to meet in secret during the Kosovo war.

With no signs outside and locked doors only opened to those in the know, they’re the ultimate in low key drinking.

One of these bars is the Federal Association of Globetrotters (yes, that’s its name!). Set in the basement of apartment building, it felt like someone was wrapping a warm Serbian blanket around my shoulders when I stepped inside my first night in Belgrade. It looked just like someone’s living room with its bohemian décor, charming little tables and chairs; books crammed into nooks and crannies, even family photos on the walls. I couldn’t help but feel completely relaxed there, especially when I tried the plummy brandy the locals enjoy – delicious slivovica.

As I leaned back in my chair and watched Serbians chatter and laugh around me, all thoughts of table plans and wedding invites drifted away…

Day

…until I woke up the next morning with a pounding slivovica-induced headache.

The only cure was to seek out the fresh air of Fruska Gora National Park, just a short drive away from Belgrade. With green rolling hills fringed by lush foliage, and monasteries dotted here and there, their bell towers glistening white in the sun, I couldn’t help but feel a real sense of tranquility when I arrived.

A visit to one of those monasteries, the Krusedol Monastery, was particularly peaceful. As I wandered around, taking in the pretty frescos and flowered gardens, even buying a bottle of the monastery’s very own wine (slightly foolish after the night I’d had but who could resist?), I started to feel normal again.

But what really worked for me was sitting outside, taking in the sweeping views of the hills below, the monastery’s bells tinkling in the background. That’s when it occurred to me that bells would be ringing for me soon. So I got up, dusted off my jeans then started heading back into the real world.

A few months later, during my wedding reception, one of my guests asked me how I’d sum Serbia up in three words. I replied: ‘A hidden gem’. It may sound like a cliché but it really is true of this little corner of Europe.

By Tracy Buchanan, author of The Atlas of Us.

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Would you go clubbing with your parents?

They say music was better 'back in my day'. Although I was a little young for it at the time, the 90s were the pinnacle of rave weekends and house music. But with most clubbers of the decade now being parents (and in their forties) a new travel trend has started to emerge: Retro Ravers.

This year has seen a increase of older couples booking party weekends in clubbing hotspots such as Ibiza, Magaluf, and Ayia Napa, in an effort to recapture their youth and the glory days of good music and carefree partying. After all, a mortgage and children doesn't have to mean giving up clubbing.

Jason from Broadway Travel, who conducted the survey, says while the older generation are heading over to party islands, they're certainly not slumming it with most spending big on luxury hotels and the VIP experience. "Many of the top clubs charge over €60 just for entry with drinks costing upwards of €10 each which can be costly for youngsters but is more affordable for the older generation."

So that begs the question: would you go clubbing abroad with your parents?

Marie from South London says she would, and does, but never abroad.

"I don't see the problem," she says. "Half the time I'm there with my mates and half the time with my mum. It's just a little different each time, with friends it's all about who can pull the hottest guy and a girls' night out. With mum, it's purely about having fun, a dance, and a laugh."

When asked if it causes her any embarrassment, she said it doesn't but her friends have had a bit to say about it. "My friends couldn't imagine doing the same and think it's weird. But my mum is one of my closest friends. She's been there for me through a recent break up, through every problem and good time, so why wouldn't I want to have fun with her? I think we'd die if we were stuck with afternoon teas or coffee. I know it's a cliché, but she's young at heart."

So would Marie go on a clubbing holiday with her mum? "No chance! It's one thing clubbing in the city, but I'd never go to party with her abroad. It'd be a little too much like Sun, Sex and Suspicious parents!"

Interested? Read on...

Malta: One for the beach bunnies

For those of us who see holidays as a chance to kick back and recharge; cycling, climbing and water sports are not our first port of call post hotel check-in. But there is no denying that stretching out on the sand day after day gets old and doesn’t make the most of the adventures available in sunnier climes. On my three-day whistle stop tour of all that Malta has to offer, I was treated to quad bikes, boat tours, segways and horse riding.

Quad biking is a great way to see Gozo if you want an overview of the island. We went out for an hour, but take your time and stop off in all the picturesque places for as many impromptu photo shoots as you can handle. It’s not an off-road trip so don’t go expecting to have your adrenaline sky rocket. Equally, if you want to really enjoy your environment, sit behind as pillion as you can’t drive safely and take in the view!

To travel in between Gozo and Malta, we took a private boat tour via Comino – a tiny isle in the middle of the channel in between the two bigger islands. The sea is crystal clear, and if you go out in a smaller boat you can be taken through the caves and watch the divers, fish schools and jellyfish. It’s great fun, you’ll get the wind in your hair and a brilliant vantage point to take in the entire Maltese archipelago.

The cliff top Segway tour was hugely popular with everyone in our group, except me. I didn’t hate it, I just didn’t really get it. My balance isn’t the best, and while I coped fine with the experience, I can’t say I derived any pleasure from it. However, I had always wanted to try it and I’m very glad I did – if you’ve wanted to give it a go, then you should! I was definitely the exception, not the rule, but if you’re not massively fussed then don’t go out of your way.

Finally, we headed to Bidnija Village for a horse riding session. Now, with seventeen years of equestrian experience under my belt, I’m biased. I was always going to have fun. The horsey people among you will understand that there is never a bad moment spent amongst our four legged companions. If you’ve never been, you’ll be taken out with a leader on an experienced horse. The stables are next door to a shooting range, so these beauties are quite literally gun proof. If you’re a more experienced rider, then go with people who are at a similar level to you – otherwise you’ll enjoy yourself, but might be a little bored.

Interested? Read on...

Malta: Adventures for active people

I’m not averse to exercise, but the thought of a full-on activities holiday daunted me. I was petrified every one else was going to be a hardcore sports nut and it would be impossible for me to keep up. Contrary to my fears, it really was enjoyable, proving you don’t need to be an Olympian to have a good time. So stop making excuses.

I tried a handful of adventures on offer to get the adrenaline flowing! 

I hiked and mountain biked on both Malta and Gozo, and I make absolutely no apologies for preferring Gozo for both activities. There are fewer cars, better ocean views, and easier routes. Cycling on Gozo was pretty straight forward, even for a nervous cyclist like me. You can make it up to the top of the cliffs and down across the saltpans. It’s got to be one of the best ways to see the island.

Make sure you visit the Azure Window: a natural window on the west side of Gozo, the last remnant of ancient underwater caves and currently nominated for one of the 8 Wonders of the World by VirtualTourist.com. If you’re an about-town cyclist like me, then I’d make sure you check your route carefully before cycling on Malta. We went on a 2-3 hour trip, which although promised as ‘mostly downhill’ took us up to the highest point on the island. Getting down from there involves an incredibly steep hill, which maxed out my brakes and lead me to crash into a wall in order to stop. Whilst my lack of cycling knowledge is entirely to blame, I was pretty shaken up and it spoiled the rest of the route for me. If, like me, you’re a bit nervous, just make sure you know where you’re going before you set off and jump off and push if things get too hairy to handle.

My favourite activity of the entire trip had to be the sea kayaking. I am an absolute sea virgin: I had never swum in the sea before (beach holidays aren’t the best if you have the attention span of a goldfish). Add this to my pitiful upper body strength and no one could have predicted that an inflatable kayak on a windy day would be my idea of a good time.

We were taken out by Andrew from MC Adventures and driven to a sheltered part of Malta where we inflated two person kayaks (sturdier than they sound) and spent an hour trying to navigate around the bay. I’m not going to admit to quite how many times there was an incident between us and a bigger, sturdier, anchored boat. It was the most fun I had on the whole trip, and laughed so hard that my ribs hurt far more than my arms. I recommend it whole-heartedly, and would go back just to do it again. If you don’t fancy kayaking, then there are a host of other water-based options including snorkelling, sea-level traversing, soloing, as well as rock-climbing and abseiling.

In the interests of full disclosure, I wouldn’t pay to go on an active holiday just to go exercise mad. But I’ve never considered seeking out these kinds of activities before and I definitely would now. Who knows what activities lay just around the corner in my usual holiday spots?

If you’re looking for a place with sunshine and beaches, but like me, you’ve got a low boredom threshold for being still-like-broccoli then this is something certainly worth looking out for. If I haven’t managed to persuade you that endorphins are your friend, then hand on for my next feature where I’ll tell you all about the less physically challenging options.

Interested? Read on...

Malta: Where to stay to make the most of your holiday

You may have already read my first feature on Malta and Gozo. If you haven't, then you definitely need to. Anyway, if you have, you may be wondering where to stay. Fortunately the Malta Tourism Authority gave me the chance to try out two five star hotels; one on the beautiful, peaceful get-away-from-it-all island of Gozo, to the north of Malta, and one on lively and loveable Malta itself. There was definitely a clear winner for me.

Kempinski Hotel's San Lawrenz
I loved this hotel. It is absolutely beautiful. Located on Gozo, it was built by a local family in a traditional style and is run by the Kempinski chain. You really cannot fault them on their impeccable standards and service. I was greeted with a tray of canapés and wine on ice in my room. I say room, you could fit a one bedroom London flat in the space. Twice over.

The standout feature of the Kempinski is the on-site spa. If indulging in a mixture of traditional and state-of-the-art treatments is top of your check-list, then there is no better place on either island. The craftsmanship is inspiring. Treatments are chosen on an a la carte basis, but the indoor pool, Jacuzzi and Hammam are free to use for all residents of the hotel. I didn’t have time to make the most of it, and I really wish I had done.

My favourite part of the Kempinski was breakfast. They have their own gardens and grow some of the produce used in the on site restaurants. The freshness of the fruit and the pastries were among the best I’ve ever had. The honey, produced by bees on Gozo, was the best I’ve ever eaten and it was truly special. There is a hot self-service buffet, a chef in the dining room, and an a la carte menu. Anything you desire, they will do for you. It's all about you.

So. If you're looking for the perfect place to get away from it all and relax in pure luxury, then the Kempinski is a fantastic choice. I’m in love with Gozo, I think its beautiful and a break from the 21st century in the best possible way. But even if that wasn’t the case, I’d go back just to be able to enjoy the facilities, the fabulous staff and the gorgeous environment. (And breakfast.)

Rooms in July start at £189 for two people sharing.

The Westin Dragonara

This hotel is slap bang in the centre of all the action. Located in St Julians on the island of Malta, it's moments away from the most popular nightlife. My room was an excellent size, with two double beds (I’m still trying to work out what I was expected to do with the second one) and balcony with a sea view. The furnishings were of a very high standard, but it feels like a hotel – quality, but clinical.

The public areas of the hotel are grand, with a chandelier over an imposing staircase. There was a wedding the evening we arrived, and the setting was truly lovely. Breakfast was pleasant, but I was disappointed to find honey imported from Germany - especially when the area is known for great local produce. There was no chef in the room, but all of the staff were very attentive.

I do have a couple of slight gripes with this hotel. First of all, they charge for wifi. This may be an idiosyncrasy of mine, but I feel very strongly that a 5* hotel should not be charging for internet access – this is pretty basic and should be included as standard. Secondly, the swimming pool and Jacuzzi area are very run down. When we went to try out the Jacuzzi, after a hard day of trekking and mountain biking, we found unpainted plaster and a cracked and slippery surround. It wasn’t just unsightly - it was a hazard. Again, if you market yourself as the best around, then these kind of issues aren’t acceptable in my opinion.

If you like a little grandeur in your home away from home, the Westin Dragonara is definitely worth checking out. It definitely feels like a chain hotel, and there are some improvements to be made, but that’s not to say I didn’t enjoy my stay very much. If I wanted to be in the area, in the middle of all the action, I would consider staying here again, but I probably wouldn’t come back purely to stay at this hotel.

Rooms in July are around £180 per night for two people sharing. They offer special packages such as 30% off if booked in advance, and free kids places.

Interested? Read on...

Escaping to Malta and Gozo

At the beginning of June, I was fortunate enough to be asked by the Malta Tourism Authority to visit Malta, and her sister Island Gozo, to sample some of the ‘active’ activities (sorry, just couldn’t resist) there are to do. I’d never heard of Gozo before I read the itinerary – geography isn’t one of my strengths. If you’re also wondering what I’m talking about then you owe yourself some alone time with Google images. When you’re done reading, naturally.

We flew with Air Malta from Heathrow. There is one airport on Malta but the island isn't huge, so there's no worried about massive cross country drives to get to your hotel. And to get to Gozo you need to take a short (but very beautiful) ferry journey. The flight time is around three hours, which is perfect for nervous fliers. I was able to sleep the entire way there and back, which to me – flying hater extraordinaire – was perfection.

There are going to be lots (and lots) of posts of what I got up to over the next few weeks, but if you’re looking to book a holiday NOW, then bear the following in mind:

Malta and Gozo are very, very different. Gozo has a much slower pace of life. It is less populated and is incredibly relaxing. There are stunning places to walk and cycle and just stare into the sea. Malta is much more inhabited. There are more tourists, and cities. The nightlife is better. Kings Landing, of Game of Thrones fame, was filmed in Mdina. Do you need more of a reason? Seriously?

The local food is to die for. I didn’t realise how much I liked fish. Actually I was fairly sure I hated fish. Turns out I just really like fish that was caught the a few hours before eating it. It's all about freshness. The tomatoes are something else. They deserve a review all of their own. The local honey was the best I’ve ever eaten. And I’ve eaten a lot. If you want to travel and consider yourself a foodie, the local restaurants serve incredible, fresh, simple and delicious dishes to suit every taste. And who knows, perhaps you'll find a new-found love for something you've never really been that keen on.

Overall, there is plenty to do. I didn’t step foot in a store – and I didn’t miss it. (It also meant I didn’t bring any gifts back, and there was no way I could feel guilty about it. Score.) If you need to escape from social media, texting, emails, your boss, your kids, or your life and just lose yourself in the real world, then Gozo and Malta are worth checking out.

Over my next few features I’ll be reviewing the hotels, food, the activities for ‘active’ people, and activities for those not so exertion inclined (that would be people like me). If I can’t sell it to you with words, then I hope the pictures do the talking!




Bess is addicted to Earl Grey tea and Classic FM. An amateur baker, she often has too many opinions and not enough tact. Her one great idea is to found a ‘breakfast and dessert’ delivery company, for all your sugar coma needs. When not exercising her right to point out bad manners, you can find her pursuing one degree too many.

Interested? Read on...