Guest post: Hide and seek in Serbia

When people think of a break in the Balkans, Croatia usually comes to mind. But after a lost weekend in Serbia, I beg to differ.

The first time I visited Belgrade and its surrounding countryside I was mesmerized. From the exposed innards of buildings bombed during the Kosovo War, to the tranquil untouched hills of neighbouring Fruska Gora, it’s a destination of contrasts.

The real beauty of the place is that it’s easy to hide away there. This is something I needed to do whilst in the midst of planning my wedding a few years ago. I needed to get away from the madness for just a few moments and take a deep, peaceful breath.

I found that peace in Serbia, hiding from all the madness of wedding planning at night in Belgrade’s underground bars then seeking out some peace in the countryside during the day.

Night

The city of Belgrade excels if you want to disappear into a whirlwind of heady drink, music and conversation with the always friendly locals. But it’s the hidden gems that really offer something special. And when I say hidden, I mean hidden. The city is home to a handful of underground ‘secret’ bars supposedly set up by people looking to meet in secret during the Kosovo war.

With no signs outside and locked doors only opened to those in the know, they’re the ultimate in low key drinking.

One of these bars is the Federal Association of Globetrotters (yes, that’s its name!). Set in the basement of apartment building, it felt like someone was wrapping a warm Serbian blanket around my shoulders when I stepped inside my first night in Belgrade. It looked just like someone’s living room with its bohemian décor, charming little tables and chairs; books crammed into nooks and crannies, even family photos on the walls. I couldn’t help but feel completely relaxed there, especially when I tried the plummy brandy the locals enjoy – delicious slivovica.

As I leaned back in my chair and watched Serbians chatter and laugh around me, all thoughts of table plans and wedding invites drifted away…

Day

…until I woke up the next morning with a pounding slivovica-induced headache.

The only cure was to seek out the fresh air of Fruska Gora National Park, just a short drive away from Belgrade. With green rolling hills fringed by lush foliage, and monasteries dotted here and there, their bell towers glistening white in the sun, I couldn’t help but feel a real sense of tranquility when I arrived.

A visit to one of those monasteries, the Krusedol Monastery, was particularly peaceful. As I wandered around, taking in the pretty frescos and flowered gardens, even buying a bottle of the monastery’s very own wine (slightly foolish after the night I’d had but who could resist?), I started to feel normal again.

But what really worked for me was sitting outside, taking in the sweeping views of the hills below, the monastery’s bells tinkling in the background. That’s when it occurred to me that bells would be ringing for me soon. So I got up, dusted off my jeans then started heading back into the real world.

A few months later, during my wedding reception, one of my guests asked me how I’d sum Serbia up in three words. I replied: ‘A hidden gem’. It may sound like a cliché but it really is true of this little corner of Europe.

By Tracy Buchanan, author of The Atlas of Us.